Sunday, April 18, 2010

"Three Days of Rain with Julia Roberts, Paul Rudd and Bradley Cooper

"Three Days of Rain" with Julia Roberts, Paul Rudd and Bradley Cooper
I saw "Three Days of Rain" with my friend and colleague, Desiree Brennan, three years ago during the Broadway run. It was Julia Roberts stage debut. Dez and I were inspired to get tickets to see if Julia Roberts had the "right stuff" for the stage. She didn't quite, but she was not an embarrassment. Paul Rudd is also an accomplished film actor and as handsome as Juila Roberts is beautiful, so the eye candy quotient for this play cannot be overestimated. However, it was an actor neither Dez nor I had ever heard of, Bradley Cooper, who managed to upstage both Roberts and Rudd whenever he was in a scene with them.

"Three Days of Rain" really is a very good play, not a great one, but a very good one. Since we all come from families and all families have their individual stories, I should think it would be relevant and compelling to everyone. It especially touched me, because a taciturn father's diary figures prominently in the play, and I will leave behind to my nieces and nephews hundreds of letters, e-letters memoirs and travelogues dating back to the summer of 1967. They are the journal I am otherwise not disciplined enough to keep. I am never at a loss for words, and I write easily about my emotions. Nan Walker was not such a man. His diary is maddenly cryptic, and it's lack of real substance frustrates his children to no end. My nieces and nephews will not have that problem! Their problem will be finding the time to read the volumes I bequeath them!

Roberts and Rudd play the children, Nan and Walker, of a mother, Lana, who battled mental illness all her life and a famous architect father, Ned, who was emotionally distant from his children the entire time they were growing up. Walker apparently suffered more from his father's distance than the sister. At any rate, the play is driven by his neuroses and his point of view. He's never settled down, indeed, has returned only coincidentally for the distribution of the father's will, after a year absence during which time he just fell of the face of the earth. Nan appears very unfeeling at first, because she won't even return her brother's embrace, and then you discover that she's very hurt and angry, because the brother just took off. She didn't know whether he was alive or dead and didn't have had any idea where he was to let him know his father had died. He missed the funeral.

As the plays opens, Walker has returned to Manhattan, where he is staying in a hovel that was once the apartment the father shared with his friend and partner whose son, Pip, is a life long friend and is the third in the troika of this three person play. Walker discovers a journal the father kept, but the journal is no more garrulous than the father was in life. Walker mentions something about the "perversity" of keeping a journal only to remain as silent in it as one was in life. The entries are terse and cryptic. One entry, April 3-6 says only, "Three days of rain." " A freaking weather report!" is how Walker dismisses his father's journal. He wants so badly to find the connection to his father that he never had while the father was alive. Another series of entries records the death of the father's life long friend and partner, Theo. "Theo is dying." "Theo is dying." "Theo is dying." "Theo is dead."

In the second act, the children have become the parents and Pip has become the partner, Theo. We discover that the three days of rain refer to the three days when Theo was away, and his sometime girlfriend, Lana, visited Ned. The two talk and talk. Ned stutters which may be part of the reason for his silence when the children were growing up, but the two connect, sleep with each other, and fall in love during those three days of rain. At one point, Lana picks up the diary that Ned just bought and reads his entry, "Three days of rain," wondering who will ever know what that means. "You and I will know what that means," he replies.

It's a play about how hard it is to truly know a person, if it's possible at all. The diary reminded me of "The Invention of Love," of A. E. Houseman's diary, of his terse and cryptic remarks about his college roommate, perhaps lover but perhaps only object of affection. "Saw him today" is about the extent of it. Houseman had no difficulty at all in coming up with an entire book to explain a lone extant phrase of an ancient Greek or Latin text, but he didn't say much more about his feelings than what is mysteriously recorded in his journal. Of course, a journal figures prominently in "Sunday in the Park with George," too. Dot is a bit more wordy, but not much, and what is written remains frustratingly oblique to the surviving great-grandson.

Roberts was leaden during the first act, just like the critics said when it opened. She did perk up while playing the aging (thirty year old) Southern Belle, Lana, who, when she and Ned fall in love, is already in an inchoate stage of the madness which would overtake her. Rudd was very good and very good looking, but the friend and then partner in the second act, Pip and Theo, dominated the stage whenever he was on it. He was wonderful. Bradley Cooper played both characters. The play's not a new one. Apparently the Arden did it several years back, but somehow I missed it. I'd like to see it again some day and will keep an eye out for it.

High School Trips to the Theater

For a high school in a small town in South Jersey, Penns Grove Regional afforded its students many cultural opportunities. Regular field trips added enormously to my general education. Often these trips included the theater and must be the reason why to this day I am a theater buff, who sees forty some plays a year. An English teacher, Mr. Thomas, took us to the McCarter Theater in Princeton to see several Shakespeare plays. The McCarter Theater remains one of the country's best regional theaters.

Mr. Antonick, who taught Biology, took us to see a touring production of "Cabaret" at the Wilmington Playhouse. I will never forget how the goings on at the Kit Kat Club in Berlin on the eve of the Nazi takeover captivated my imagination for that city and stirred my desire to travel there so that I could see it myself. I have been there five times!

During my sophomore year in high school, I was lucky enough to have Miss Grabosky for English. She was young, beautiful and hip. We all loved her. One night, she took us to Philadelphia to see the great Angela Lansbury in "Mame," one of the most legendary musicals of all time, in its try out run before transferring to Broadway.

Beyond the pleasure of seeing Angela Lansbury and Bea Arthur, who would later achieve fame as "Maude," two unforgettable things happened that evening. Rumor had it that Ann-Margret was in the audience. Of course, we students were in the nosebleed section of the balcony. We went up to the railing and looked way down into the orchestra, where all the "rich people" were sitting. I spotted a woman in one of the rows closest to the stage. Cascading down her petite porcelain white shoulders was the most gorgeous red hair I had ever seen in my life. I just knew it was Ann-Margret's, and, as if to prove it just to me, she turned around. What a thrill for a kid from Penns Grove to see a movie star, who was then one of the most beautiful women in the world.

It was also that night that I was called "Sir" for the first time in my life. During intermission, I bought a program. The attendant said, "Thank you, Sir." I looked at my friends, laughed and said, " Hah! Sir!!??" Without missing a beat, the woman quipped, "Force of habit!" I'll never forget that night, and I'll never forget those high school trips to the theater which so stirred my imagination and made me the theater buff that I am today.

"Company," "Being Alive," Nashotah House and Psalm 22

This note is both a review of the 2006 revival of Stephen Sondheim's groundbreaking musical, "Company," and a memoir about my experience at Nashotah House, an Episcopalian seminary, that I attended for a brief two months in the fall of 1975. Confronted with profound emotional upheaval in my life, I decided to leave Nashotah House, and, along with it, my long held dream of becoming an Episcopalian priest, in October of 1975. I do not write about what caused the "profound emotional upheaval in my life." Family and close friends know all about it already. Others, who might read this note and who might want to hear the entire story, should feel free to call or email me, and I will be happy to share it, although it is one of those stories best shared over a leisurely dinner with a freewheeling discussion about our lives.

I loved "Company," just like I thought I would, but it did not win me over immediately. It took some time to engage me fully. Even by the end of the first act, I thought that I might be overall disappointed. My expectations were so high that I thought I was going to feel let down.

The set is intriguing. It captures the spirit of the play and the heart and soul, or what's left of both, of the aging upper middle class Manhattan sophisticates who are Bobby's friends. It all glistens and gleams and sparkles and shines, from the black bare brick wall of the theater to the Plexiglas cubes arranged in seemingly haphazard order, to the black lacquered Steinway, instruments resting here and there as if in a special exhibit in a museum, and to the spic and span hard wood floor polished to a fine sheen and with an equally glistening interlay of beautiful tile with an eye catching dark blue hue. A lone gleaming white fluted Corinthian column anchors the set. It's as shiny and sleek as the rest of the stage design. It's base is a little offsetting, though. It's looks like a round radiator whose flat top serves as a table for cocktails, ashtrays, and as a rest for the hands, arms and backs of the performers.

The performances are all strong. I think some of the reason why I wasn't immediately all agog is the central the conceit of the production. As much as the idea is unique, innovative and works on several levels, having actors playing their own instruments demands sacrifices, particularly in choreography, that have been mentioned in other reviews.

I've seen "Company" several times. The choreography can be lots of fun. I've seen the women in Bobby's life confront him with the "You Could Drive a Person Crazy" number in a variety of exciting ways. Here, although the song is delivered as well as I've ever heard it, there's not much you can do with your hands, feet, legs and body while playing instruments. Side By Side, which opens the second act, is choreographed as imaginatively as possible, I think, if all the actors are playing instruments while performing it. For that reason alone, it doesn't disappoint. However, with all its energy and drive, it, too, is a choreographer's dream. It works better without the burden of instruments.


Lack of specifically designed spaces for the action bothered me just a little, too. Company is nowhere near as complex a show as Sweeney Todd, but there were still some moments when people unfamiliar with the play might not know exactly where something is taking place. If Bobby's friends don't have homes, if Harry and Sarah aren't sparring in their apartment surrounded by real furniture, for example, if Peter, Susan and Bobby, and later, just Peter and Bobby, aren't on a terrace for the terrace scene, if Bobby doesn't have an apartment, if he and April aren't in his bedroom in bed for the Barcelona number, and if Martta is not outside all by herself on a park bench when she sings "Another Hundred People," then these scenes don't pack the same emotional wallop, at least for me, as they otherwise would. Maybe I've just been spoiled by TV and film. Had I grown up listening to the radio, I might have a more finely honed imagination, and all of that wouldn't bother me one bit.

On the other hand, and this has been said, too, the convention allows you to focus more attention on the book and the remarkably profound lyrics. Some of the action, some of the dialog and even a lyric here and there, are dated- middle aged couples experimenting with marijuana, because it's the latest rage with the kids, "my service will explain," but, of course, the themes of the show are as relevant today as they ever were. They are eternal, and Sondheim's take on them is so amazingly insightful and rings so profoundly true that you know why so many people who love the theater think that he's a god. I paid more attention to the dialog this time around than I had before. It's very funny and insightful. The songs and the lyrics are still the highlight, but the book is solid, too. I like all the New Yorker jokes. I didn't remember them from before, lines like "The pulse of New York City is the busy signal." and "I'm a New Yorker. Nothing interests me."

Esparza plays it low key throughout. He always keeps a slight emotional distance. Bobby is supposed to be so good looking, so personable, so socially accessible and adept, so charming, and so charismatic that all these people can't help loving him to death. Esparza's choice takes something away from all that. But it makes his epiphany, his great catharsis, "Being Alive," all the more powerful. I've never seen it performed any better. When he sits down at that Steinway, the first time he plays an instrument, I knew what was coming, and I expected a lot. Esparza delivered in spades. Dorothy Parker delivered that famous one liner review of an early Katherine Hepburn stage performance, "She ran the gamut of emotions from A to B.'' I don't know what the venomous wit would say about Esparza's "Being Alive," but his performance will forever remain for me the alpha and the omega of that song. In part because until the moment he sits down at the piano, he's been so detached, but to a great extent because of his awe inspiring voice. He finds the whole truth and nothing but the truth in the song. It's incredibly moving.

Christ quoted the opening line of Psalm 22 right before dying on the cross, "My God, My God, why has thou forsaken me?" That psalm has been called " a cry of anguish and a song of praise." It has particular resonance for me, because the last time I walked the beautiful grounds of Nahshota House, I cried out to God in my despair, and He remained silent. Nearly a year later, I wrote a paper about my experience at Nashota House for a remarkable professor who wanted us to finish our research paper at the last possible moment. She said she didn't care if we were still writing when she walked into the class to collect them. She wanted our last possible reflections on the topic, which she wanted us to explore not only intellectually but spiritually and personally, as well. I could react very personally to the paper, because she and I became friends in the course of the semester, and she knew my whole story.

Thirty-four years ago, I wrote a paper on the origins of Spiritualism and my experience growing up with it in my family, my spiritual journey until that date, and, to personalize it, I wrote about my experience with seminary and Jim. I didn't finish the paper in the classroom, but I did finish it after midnight on Sunday morning before the Monday it was due. The paper was incredibly healing. Putting my thoughts down "black on white," as Mephistopheles says about his contract with Faust, about leaving Nashota House, almost a year after it happened, made me understand for the first time what really was happening inside of me and why it happened.

Synchronicities surrounding the paper were quite dramatic. To close the paper, I wanted a quote from the Bible, one that would capture the utter despair I felt the day I took a final walk in the woods between two lakes and the elation I felt as all the pieces of the Nashotah House puzzle fell into place for the very first time. I went over to a Bible, picked it up and opened it randomly to Psalm 22. This "cry of anguish and song of praise" captured perfectly exactly what I felt when I left Nashotah and what I was feeling at that moment of epiphany. I still marvel when I think about it. After all, the Bible is a very long book! :-)

The next day, for the first time since I had left seminary, I attended church. I laughed and cried throughout the entire service. It was the celebration of Pentecost, the decent of the Holy Spirit on the disciples. I had no idea. I couldn't believe it. The sermon was not an angry one at all, but it was about our arrogance before God. The priest, who was subbing for my priest on vacation and didn't know me, even wove into the sermon my passion for language, referencing the Tower of Babel and calling it not just a myth for the evolution of foreign languages, but, more profoundly, a story about the creature's arrogance before the Creator. Nashotah was to a great extent about my arrogance. God had very little to do with my call to the priesthood. Upsetting the church, stirring things all up all on all kinds of fronts, personal and political, was what I dreamed about doing in my ministry. My call was all about me. I thought I had the brains and charisma to pull it all off, to revolutionize the church. Oh, sure, I wanted to help people and make society better, but it was mostly about arrogance and pride.

Ever since I first heard "Being Alive," I have wondered whether Sondheim was inspired by Psalm 22 both for the structure of the song and its central emotional dilemma. From anguish to joy is what both the psalm and the song are all about. I wouldn't be surprised at all if that psalm, so important to me personally, did inspire Sondheim, and if that's one of the reasons hearing it always moves me so deeply.

A High School Memoir: The Great Debate of 1967

I have friends who do not feel at all nostalgic for their high school years. They were glad when high school was over, and they never looked back. It is hard for me to understand these friends, because I loved high school! I still keep in touch with a group of several friends from my "wonder years." The bonds we forged, dating all the way back to elementary school, are quite strong. These friends knew my siblings, and they knew my parents when they were still young and vigorous. They understand me in a way that it is very difficult for the friends I have made as an adult.

Not long ago, my Alma Mater, Penns Grove High High School, celebrated its centenary, and I was asked to reflect on my high school experience. Reflect I did! Among other things, I was asked to recall the funniest incident from my high school years.

Looking back on it, I am certain that my funniest memory is participating with Francine Marteski in a debate on compulsory arbitration at Glassboro State College. For this debate, we had only one night’s training at Tucker Webster’s house on the eve of the debate, and we really didn't even know what compulsory arbitration was. Tucker did his best to explain it to us, but our hearts weren't in it, and we couldn't have grasped it anyway in a one evening tutorial.

Tucker handed us a speech, which he had researched and written, on index cards, and in the morning debate, Francine and I simply read the index cards, not only for our introductory remarks but for our rebuttals as well!! We might not have known anything about compulsory arbitration, but we did know enough to realize how ridiculous and uninformed we must have sounded. All the judges wrote that our arguments were “canned,” because, of course, they were. At the time it was the most humiliating and terrifying experience of my life.

There was a second round of debates after lunch. Francine and I were determined that we would not put ourselves through that kind of humiliating torture again. There was no way!! So we found a broom closet in some far off nook or cranny of the building, and we hid out in there until the debates were over. We stared at each other or spoke in whispers for what seemed like an eternity. We did our best to repress laughter at a situation, which even then we realized was absurd. Every time we heard footsteps, we were scared to death that some janitor would open the door and catch us there! We exited the closet just in time for the award ceremony. Of course, the second round of debates went on record as forfeited for the Penns Grove Junior Varsity Debate Team. But Francine and I, due to some quick thinking and a little chutzpa, were spared any further humiliation in front of the good professors at Glassboro State College.

Neither Francine nor I have ever debated again in our lives, but it sure makes for one great story to recount to classmates when we get together for dinner. Whenever we recount it, we are all suddenly back in high school laughing so hard we almost literally fall off our chairs. People in the restaurant look at us as if we were crazy. I always feel sorry for people who don't remember what it was like to be a kid, what it was like to be totally caught up in a moment, almost a Zen-like state, when the real world melts away and all your adult problems and concerns right along with it. It’s a wonderful feeling. I hope I never lose the child within. As long as I can still get together with my good friend from Re-Hi, I know I never will.

Cuban Cigar Caper

Sometimes the wisdom that comes with age and experience is not all it is cracked up to be. Sometimes all it does is guarantee that you will miss out on an adventure. Sometimes, the openness, naivete, and blissful ignorance of youth are exactly what a traveler most needs. Just like the bean did for Jack, these youthful qualities can lead to an adventure. I have discovered that some youthful folly can serve the traveler well. I cannot speak for others, but the last thing I want to miss out on when I find myself in some far away land is an adventure. Youthful folly in the guise of a daring eighteen year old fresh out of high school was my ticket to a great adventure in the bowels of Havana in June of 2000.

In late June of 2000, I found myself with a group of educators in Cuba on a tour sponsored by the World Affairs Council of Philadelphia. Two of my fellow educators had taken their eighteen year old sons along. One day we visited the Museum of the Revolution in Havana. Cuba's Museum of the Revolution is housed in a lovely neo-Classical building, the former presidential palace. Having spent some time in the former Soviet Union, I was all too familiar with museums of the revolution. They are often more interesting on the outside than on the inside, and they are not air-conditioned. While this is not a consideration in December in Moscow, it certainly is a consideration in late June in Havana.

Very quickly the tour became tedious and tiresome not only to me but also to Drew, one of the two young men in our group. After about an hour, I was tired of the Socialist realist revolutionary murals, tired of photographs of Castro in the jungle, tired of the dummies in dusty old uniforms, tired of rifles and tired of the heat and humidity. I wanted out, and so did Drew.

We left the museum to wait outside for the other more stouthearted in our group. We hadn't been out on the street for long when we were approached by a black marketeer who asked us if we wanted to buy some Cuban cigars. We had been warned by our guide about these black market Cuban cigars, how they were always fake and how they were rolled in banana leaves. I also knew enough about the black market in communist states from my experience in the former Soviet Union and the former German Democratic Republic to be very leery of them.

With all the certitude of an informed adult, I dismissed our black marketeer's offer with a they're-rolled-in-banana-l
eaves put down. "No, no banana leaves," he immediately sought to reassure us. As I turned my back and started to walk away, Drew's face lit up, and he started to pummel the guy with questions. Before I knew it, the two of them were taking off for parts unknown. Without giving it any real thought, I followed in hot pursuit.

Soon Drew and I found ourselves in a Havana neighborhood that our guide had left off the tour. Cubans who hadn't paid much attention to us anywhere else were suddenly taking note of our presence in their midst. The buildings were in terrible decay. Balconies seemed so rickety they looked like they could fall into the street at any minute, and every now and then you could see an area where a balcony had once been and know that is exactly what had happened.

Our new friend led us into a ground floor apartment not only closing but also locking the door behind him. Suddenly, I felt just a little uneasy and wondered exactly what I had gotten myself into. As if on cue, two other guys appeared in the spartanly furnished living room. None of them knew much English at all. Spanish is not one of my languages, but I knew that Drew had studied it for four years in high school from which he had just graduated, and that made me feel a little better about the situation.

They went back into the kitchen and brought out several boxes of various brands of Cuban cigars. Drew and I recognized Cohibas, considered by connoisseurs the finest Cuban cigar, and Romeo y Juliettas, favored by Churchill. The cigars looked like individual works of art to me. The boxes they came in were beautiful, as well, but what did I know? When the men started talking price, Drew looked at me and asked, "How much is that?" I knew we were in trouble! "Drew, you've had four years of Spanish! Didn't you learn the numbers in the first couple of months of Spanish I!? How high can it be!?" Negotiations went back and forth in our friends' fractured English and Drew's even more fractured Spanish.

As the tediously halting and hopelessly fractured give and take continued, I was getting more and more anxious. Finally, Drew made a decision and forked over a hundred and some odd dollars for a box of fine Cohibas. "Good! Now let's get the hell out of here," I said with great relief. We went for the door and were stopped by the guy, who had approached us on the street. He physically put himself between us and the door and motioned for us to sit down. His actions came with an explanation in Spanish, but that did neither Drew nor me any good at all. A couple of tense minutes went by, and for the first time in my life, I had the panicky feeling that I was being held against my will. He approached the door, opened it, and looked out. Who knows what he was doing!? Checking for nosy neighbors? For the police? Maybe it was all just for show to give the tourists the illusory thrill that they really were involved in something clandestine and illegal. Drew and I will never know. Finally, the guy opened the door, shook our hands and bid us goodbye. We were left to our own devices to find our way out of whatever off-the-beaten-tourist-path neighborhood we were in and get back to the Museum of the Revolution.

Did we ever have some tale to tell that night at dinner! It left the group in stitches. I remember Drew's mother thanking me for accompanying him on the escapade! Somehow, she was reassured that an adult was on hand. As if an adult who knew no Spanish and nothing about the Cuban black market would have been any help at all, had we gotten ourselves into any more serious a mess than we actually did!

The hotel had a lounge with a great band. That night, Drew and I celebrated our successful foray in the Cuban black market with a shot of fine Cuban rum and our ill gotten black market loot. After the set, one of the band members came over and said in very good English, "I can tell from the way they're burning that those are black market cigars. You got conned."

Well, I didn't get conned. Drew did. Without the con, though, there would have been no adventure. No, that's not quite right. Without Drew, there would have been no adventure. No story to tell my family, friends and students. No memory to savor for the rest of my life. Wisdom was no match that afternoon for the folly of youth. Lucky me!

Well, I didn't get conned. Drew did. Without the con, though, there would have been no adventure. No, that's not quite right. Without Drew, there would have been no adventure. No story to tell my family, friends and students. No memory to savor for the rest of my life. Wisdom was no match that afternoon for the folly of youth. Lucky me!Drew and I in the hotel lounge celebrating our adventure
Drew and I in the hotel lounge celebrating our adventureA Cuban cigar factory.A Cuban cigar factory.Making REAL Cuban cigars!Making REAL Cuban cigars!A Cuban cigar factory.A Cuban cigar factory.Cigar Factory workerCigar Factory workerCigar factory workerCigar factory workerDrew smoking a real Cuban cigar outside of the factory we visited.
Drew smoking a real Cuban cigar outside of the factory we visited.

An Incident at the Wannsee, Berlin


I have been lucky enough to chaperon five groups of students for the AATG, American Association of Teachers of German, summer PAD program. Although students now stay with host families for three weeks, it used to be a four week program. They attend classes during the week. There are sometimes planned excursions even on weekdays, but most often they are on weekends. The chaperon stays with a partner teacher, who administers the program from the German end and with whom the chaperon team teaches and cooperates in other ways to make sure the students are happy and that the program runs smoothly. I used the word, “luck,” above, because each time I have done it, the program has run more or less smoothly. There has been a mini-crisis here or there, but the students have all been wonderful, and the headaches for me were few and far between. It’s a working vacation.

In the summer of 2001 when the program was still a month long one, I chaperoned a group of students in the city of Erlangen. My partner teacher was Peter Ott, and I had a delightful time staying with him and his charming wife,Toni, who was also very helpful in making sure that the program ran smoothly.

Since the experience was a month long at that time, we had the luxury of taking one week off from school and going to one of the most exciting cities in Europe, Berlin. One afternoon, Peter and Toni took us all out for a picnic to the Wannsee, a lake about a half hour's train ride outside of Berlin. In January of 1942, in a beautiful mansion on that very lake, the Wannsee Conference took place. At this conference the "final solution" to the "Jewish question," genocide, was reached by Rheinhardt Heydrich, Himmler's second in command of the SS, and fifteen top Nazi bureaucrats.

Years ago, my high school German teacher, Frau Marion Cote, gave me a National Geographic from 1936 with a pictorial essay on the "New Berlin." It is remarkable to read. Just three years before Germany invaded Poland, the reporting is more than straight forward. It's downright glowing! I guess the American press got caught up in Olympic fever, too, but it is rather shameful when you think about it. One of the photos is of people frolicking on the beach of the Wannsee, but the Nuremberg Laws were adopted in 1935, so there were no Jews frolicking on that beach or enjoying the afternoon sun on any of the lovely park benches featured in the article.

The day was hot and muggy. The kids and Peter and I left the train right away for the beach while Toni, along with some of the students‘ German host brothers and sisters, went shopping for food and drink. By the time they arrived about an hour later, we were all starving. Peter, the kids and I had killed time by sitting in the shade of a stately elm, talking, reading, listening to music and taking pictures, including several of one kid who got up that tree with the skill and speed of Boy from the Tarzan series. I used to be able to do it just that fast! All I could do was marvel at him as he climbed all the way up that tree with maneuvers I had long since forgotten and skills which have long since atrophied.

When Toni and the German kids finally arrived with the food and drink, we found a nice spot and started to devour the food. After we were done, the kids all wandered off to go bathing. I kept putting off a decision to join them, talking to Peter and Toni, not sure if I would go in or not. Even though the kids had come out of the water a couple of time to urge me to go in, I still hesitated. What had happened there in January of 1942 loomed heavy on my mind. Finally, I decided that my reservations were simply silly, that this was my chance to swim in the (in)famous lake and that I was not going to miss the opportunity. It may sound strange, but I always think at times like this about how fleeting and transitory life is, how I may never get back to a particular place, never get another chance to do what is then mine for the doing, and I almost always wind up following the admonition, carpe diem. Still, ever present just on the other side of the lake was that beautiful mansion, now a museum, where evil happened.

We were about a several yards down from the main beach area. I walked over to the water, and toward a dock off in the distance with a wonderful looking slide that slinked its way with lots of curves into the water. I walked as far as I could go, never losing sight of the dock with its slide or of the mansion on the other where the Wannsee Conference took place. It was a strange mix of emotion, the childlike anticipation of sliding down that great looking board just ahead of me on the dock and the almost frightening feeling that came over me when I looked off onto that mansion, the venue for the Wannsee Conference, on the other side of the shore.

Just before I left home, I had watched an HBO film recreating from the original transcripts that infamous meeting in all its chilling detail. Until the Wannesee Conference, the Nazis were determined to make Europe “judenrein,” cleansed of Jews, but there were several possible solutions to the “Jewish Question.” After the conference, genocide became the “final solution.”

I walked as far I could and then swam the little ways to the dock. I climbed the ladder, and after reading the suggestions for taking the slide, decided that I would go down flat on my back. The slide had more spirals and was longer than it seemed. I felt anxious from the very moment I began to descend. One problem was that the surface was not all that wet or slippery. Another problem was that the slide curved in as if forming a tube and, lying flat, my vision was obstructed.

When I finally landed in the lake, I took in one big gulp of water. It startled me so much that it took my breath away. I didn't panic because I was just on the other side of the dock, and I knew could reach the ladder to hold on and to rest before I swam back to the shore. But by this time, I was feeling very anxious, and I wanted so badly to get out of that water that I didn't stay long enough at the ladder to rest before I started to swim, backstroke, toward the shore. Suddenly, I felt as if I had absolutely no stamina left, none at all. I couldn't catch my breath, and I panicked. There in the water, which I have always loved and where I have always been comfortable, I found myself right in the middle of the one and only panic attack I have ever had in my life.

There was a life guard way off in the distance, and there was no one immediately around me. For the first time in my life, I understood the expression, “paralyzed by fear," because I was! I couldn't move, and I couldn't speak. I tried with all my might to raise my hand and immediately realized that the lameness of the gesture. I couldn't even get my hand an inch above the water, let alone wave my arm and yell out for help. With peripheral vision, I could see off in the distance a few people here and there whose attention I could not attract. I was scared to death. It all seems so silly now, even funny, but the thought crossed my mind that this is how I was going to die, drowning in that lake with a beautiful blue sky the last thing I saw and the din of people pursuing leisure and birds' chirping that last thing I heard. Seriously, I really thought I might drown, nothing even remotely like that had ever happened to me before. As I said, I have always been at home in the water.After all, I am a Pisces. :-)

Just in the nick of time, I got hold of my senses enough to realize that I might be able to touch the bottom. Somehow, my body was willing to cooperate and let my legs move downward. Thank God, my feet soon met the bottom. To me now, the funniest part of the story is the entire time I thought I might be on the verge of drowning, I could touch the bottom!! However, such is the nature of panic. It took me several minutes to regain my breath and too shake off the feeling of panic. I kept loudly heaving over and over again until I didn't need to do it anymore. I was making a huge racket, but I was isolated, and I did not even care about possible embarrassment. At any rate, I don't think anyone was paying any attention to me at all. Then I walked over to Peter who was lying on a blanket by himself after everyone else had gotten on the train for the ride back to Berlin. He and I made small talk for about twenty minutes until we left. I did not tell him what had just happened. I was too embarrassed by it.

I know what happened that day happened because of a random series of circumstances and decisions, but in retrospect, I think it is very strange that I should have the only panic attack I have ever had in my life in that very lake. I am at the same time angry that I wasn't able go down that slide at least two or three more times. I would have spent hours doing just that as a kid, but I don't think I will ever set foot in that lake again.

To imagine that the Wannsee is somehow evil is silly. To imagine that the mansion, where the Wannsee Conference took place, is evil is also silly. But in January of 1942 evil did take place in that very mansion on the other end of the shore of the Wannsee. It is hard for me to dismiss the notion that the otherwise lovely summer day with Peter, Toni, and our student charges was somehow marred by my own emotional associations, much deeper than I had realized, with that mansion and that lake.

Family Values

Seven years ago, I spoke at the annual conference, held every year at the Mother Church in Philadelphia, of the Church of Ageless Wisdom. My grandmother, Rev. Elizabeth Hand, founded the church in the 1920's and eventually had it incorporated in all fifty states. There are also congregations in England and Canada. When my grandmother died in 1977, Rev. Mabel Byers, a parishoner, a loyal student and beloved friend of my grandparents and our family, became pastor of Philadelphia mother church. Rev. Byers has always been Aunt Mable to my siblings and me. We love her, and we think it is fitting that she leads the Mother Church. When she asked me to speak, I was at first reluctant, but I quickly realized that such a talk could serve as a tribute to my beloved grandparents and my mother, who had recently passed away. I agreed, and I am very happy I did so.

I do want to say that even after having been exposed to this world all my life, I am still not sure exactly what I believe. I do believe in the four phenomena of parapsychology: telepathy, clairvoyance, precognition and telekinesis. Beyond that, I am not sure exactly what is going on when someone gets an apparent communication from a deceased loved one or a remarkable healing takes place. I am convinced, however, that whatever is at work is something beyond what science can explain.

I am very comfortable with the language of metaphysics, to which my grandparents and mother dedicated their hearts and souls. During my talk, I spoke in that language.


When Rev. Bayer's, Aunt Mable to my siblings and me, asked me to talk at the
conference, I was a little hesitant at first. The last time I gave a talk
about matters, the topic was: Psychic Phenomena: A Young Person's
Perspective. All you have to do is take one look at me to know how long ago
that must have been! But Rev. Bayers has a charming way of getting what she
wants. Of course, all she had to do was ask me. I have a story to tell about
growing up in a family of renowned metaphysicians and am happy to share it
with all of you. It's an honor and a privilege.

What was it like having Rev. Beth Hand for a grandmother? Rev. Ralph for a
grandfather and Rev. Muriel Hand for a mother? My grandmother was a
remarkable woman, way ahead of her time, who founded a church and
incorporated it in all fifty states during her lifetime. My grandfather was
a trance medium and a great healer. And my mother, Muriel Hand, became Arch
Bishop Primate of the Church after my grandmother's death and was an
accomplished channeler, numerologist, astrologer, hypnotherapist and teacher
all her life. Of course, to me, Rev. Beth Hand was Nanny and Rev. Ralph
Hand, Ada. My mother always said I coined the name. I guess I was trying to
say "Da Da," and it came out like "Ada." Whatever the reason, the name
stuck, and my siblings and I called him Ada for the rest of his life. And,
of course, Rev.Muriel Hand was my beloved mother, my Mom.How did these
remarkable people shape me? What did I learn from them?

How did my experience growing up differ from that of my friends and peers?
These are things I would like to talk about this afternoon, the values,
family values they imparted and that helped to make me the person I am
today.

It goes way back to childhood. From my earliest memory, I knew that my
grandmother was a minister of The Church Of Ageless Wisdom and that my
grandfather could heal while in a trance state. As a kid, what an adventure
it was to go to church with Nanny and Ada! For a little kid from the country
and then a small town in the suburbs, going into a big city like
Philadelphia was always an adventure, a feast for the eyes. A whirl of
sights and sounds and people of all colors, sizes and shapes! Just driving
over the Walt Whitman Bridge was dramatic enough! All the way down Broad
Street, the longest running street in the country, we would all help Nanny
call on her Indian guide, Tall Pine, to help us with the traffic lights.
Sometimes Tall Pine would turn them all green just as our car approached,
and sometimes he was off busy doing other things perhaps a bit more
important! I think my earliest urge to travel, a love which remains with me
till this very day, started on those trips to Philadelphia. I loved the
diversity of the city, and I still do. Asians, African-Americans, people
from other countries speaking different languages, people who hustled and
bustled to all the important places I imagined they were going to.

I also saw this same diversity in my grandmother's church. People of all
colors and from all backgrounds made up her loving congregation. My siblings
and I had a lot of aunts and uncles in that congregation and they treated us
very specially. We always got plenty of hugs and were fussed over and doted
on. Often, they would slip us a dollar bill -- and this was in the late
Fifties and early Sixties, when a dollar bill was actually worth something.
I think once Aunt Vera even gave me, the oldest, a five dollar bill! How we
loved to attend that church! To watch our grandmother up there in her full
pastoral garb. She looked so majestic, so regal! To observe the authority
and ease with which she ran the service, to watch her deliver the sermon we
had often seen her type up on her reliable old Royal typewriter-- we spent
many a weekend at our grandparents-- and could watch her prepare first hand
for Sunday. To listen to her rich contralto, she sang with Janette McDonald
and Nelson Eddie, soaring over the rest of the congregation during the hymns
and and closing the service with the Hymn Of Peace. It made me feel so
proud! And to observe how all these people from such diverse backgrounds
formed a community that not only worshiped together but also clearly loved
and cared about each other and who were friends even outside the Church.
What a special privilege that was! As a child, I never really thought much
about it. When I got a little older, I realized from my experience with the
Church Of Ageless Wisdom that people from different backgrounds not only can
respect each other and work together but also genuinely love each other.

Of course, I came of age in the 1960's when the great moral battle being waged
in our country was the Civil Rights Movement. Thanks to my grandparents
church, and thanks to my mother's example, I never had to deal much with
racism or prejudice. It made perfect sense to me that all people are equal
and that everyone should be treated with respect. Neither my grandparents
nor my mother ever droned on and on about racial equality to me and my
siblings. They just lived it and taught by their example. Those trips to the
city and those visits to the Church instilled in me one of the most
fundamental human values one can have,respect for other peoples'
differences. Over and over again in our diverse society this respect has
served me well.

And the wonderful things we observed growing up in that church! I was there
when the famous UFO researcher, George Hunt Williamson, talked about flying
saucers and the space intelligencies. I still have a book he wrote and
autographed for my grandmother. As a child, it was so fascinating
to speculate that we weren't alone in the universe, that intelligent beings
were not only visiting us but had superior knowledge which they could share
for our betterment. And I heard them share it not only through my
grandfather but also other channelers who visited the Church. That experience
fostered a fascination with life on other planets and UFOs which also
continues to this very day.

I think my mother did a wonderful job balancing our activity in the Church Of
Ageless Wisdom with our so called normal lives as kids. She decided to raise
us Episcopalians so that we could easily fit in with all the other kids. But
she was not ashamed of her parents work, believed in it completely
and exposed us children to it by degrees and by occasional visits to the
Church which were always fun and exciting for us all. However, we did
appreciate the fact that we were different, because we were told that most
people didn't understand the teachings of the Church, that most people didn't
casually talk with the dead the way we did or witness miraculous healings. We
realized that in this respect our family was different. Even our father
didn't believe what we believed. Somehow, we knew better than to discuss
theses things with our friends. Only later, when I got older, did I share my
Nanny's and Ada's story, my beliefs in the hereafter, healing, flying saucers
and metaphysical arts with friends, most of whom were fascinated by it and
many of whom became converts themselves.

I guess one incident stands out as a turning point in my beliefs. As a kid,
I used to get swimmer's ear rather often. If you've ever had it, you know
how painful it can be. One Saturday evening when I was staying with
my grandparents, it suddenly came over me and was very uncomfortable. We couldn't
go see our family doctor until Monday, so my grandmother said: "Kipp, why
don't you sit with your grandfather and let the spirit doctors take a look
at it?" I was about twelve years old, right around that age when children
start thinking more on their own and wondering for themselves just how true
all the things were that their parents taught them. I sort of believed in my
grandfather, but I also sort of didn't. I even remember thinking to myself:
This probably won't help but it can't hurt either. My grandfather loved
African violets, and he spent countless hours downstairs in the basement of
my grandparents' home tending to his beloved plants. He brought me down to
the basement for the healing, because it was quiet and the darkness was
conducive to going into at trance. As I had seen him do many times, he put
on a blindfold, started breathing rhythmically, his head sank, jerked up and
Dr. Faulkner began to speak through him. I remember Dr. Faulkner's saying
that my ear was indeed infected and that he and the other spirit doctors
were working to clear the infection. Just as he spoke these words, I heard a
crackling in my ear. I guess I must have been more skeptical than I thought,
because I remember being startled when I heard it. And the crackling
continued until my ear was clear as a bell. That was the very last time that
I ever doubted my grandfather's ability to heal.

Shortly after that I sat in on a circle of healing for a man who had much
more than a simple case of swimmer's ear. He was deaf! I believe he was a
friend of Rev. Enrique, a friend and student of my grandparents. It must
have been spring because there were lilacs on a table. I remember people
commenting on how wonderful they smelled and Rev. Enrique's saying: "That's
God's perfume!" I have never forgotten that! It seems like a simple insight,
but it is actually a profound spiritual truth. God is the source of all
creation. Man can imitate the scent of lilacs, but no matter how skillfully
made and no matter how expensive the perfume, the scent pales in comparison
with what God has created.

Before he went into trance, my grandfather told me I might feel pins and
needles during the healing and I did, but I could tell from his face that
the man being healed really felt the great power that healing. He put
his hands to his ears at one point, his face seemed to betray an agony, which
was little bit scary to me, but it was the healing power he was feeling. He
moaned and groaned, and at one point, I wondered whether the spirit doctors
manifesting through my grandfather were helping or hurting him. But it soon
became clear that they were helping him, healing him of deafness. At one
point with tears in his eyes he told us that he could hear our voices loud
and clear and that his hearing was restored. I remember toward the end of
the evening that my grandmother whispered something from all the way across
the room and he heard her. I think I must have been in my early teens at
that time and I walked away from that evening having learned two great
lessons: From Rev. Enrique that God is the source of all creation, and from
my grandfather that God can heal, even deafness.

As I got older, into my late teens and college years, many of my friends and
I started to question some of the religious teachings we were raised with.
We had many discussions, which we called "rap sessions" in the jargon of
the Sixties. I remember how the arguments went. The Bible is two
thousand years old. How can anyone know whether all those miracles
really happened? Maybe they are just myths, stories made up long ago by
gullible and superstitious people. I even had friends and professors in
college who questioned the existence of God himself. Not I!! I knew that
those miracles in the Bible must have happened because all my life I had seen
things that looked very much like those miracles. God didn't stop healing two
thousand years ago. I knew the power of healing was real because I had seen
it with my own eyes! My friends also debated life after death. How do we
know there's a soul that survives death? How can you believe in life after
death when there is no modern evidence for it! Are you going to base your
beliefs entirely on a book that was written two thousand years ago? Well,
again, you see, I knew better. I had sat with some of the best mediums of the
time,including my grandfather, and had listened to countless stories from
my mother and grandparents attesting to the fact that the soul survives the
death of the body and that communication with the so called dead was
possible.

The summer after my senior year in high school in 1969, I worked the midnight
shift busing tables and washing dishes with my best friend, Wayne Jordan, at
a Howard Johnson's at Exit One of the New Jersey Turnpike. And if any of you
can remember when Howard Johnson's had the Turnpike franchise cornered, then
like I have just done, you betray your age! Wayne loved science and planned
to major in Chemistry in college which we would both be beginning in the
fall. He and I had long conversations into the wee small hours of the
morning that summer about religion, God, the power of prayer and life after
death, and Wayne was skeptical about everything that I told him. Finally,
after listening to me go on and on for weeks, he said: "Kipp,my mother's
been diagnosed with terminal cancer. If your grandfather can heal her, I will
believe in everything you've been telling me this summer." The next day, I
told my mother about Mrs. Jordan, and she was immediately was on the phone to
my grandmother. My grandfather selflessly drove to Mrs. Jordan's repeatedly
over the summer for healing sessions. When she was next examined, doctors
were amazed that her cancer had not only stopped spreading but was rapidly
retreating. That was the summer of 1969,and I am happy to report that Mrs.
Jordan is still very much alive in the summer of 2003! And my friend, Wayne,
is still a believer!

Indeed that summer, my friends were so enthusiastic about the truths they
were witnessing that they begged me to take them to Camp Silver Bell in
Ephrata, Pennsylvania, a spiritualist retreat you've probably all heard of
and which my grandmother helped to found in the 1930s but she which she
hadn't been to in years and years. Unlike my friends and me, she and my
mother didn't need to flock to mediums to know what was true and what
wasn't. But my mother and my grandmother loved me, and with some bemusement,
they took my friends and me to Silver Bell. I remember that my grandmother
drove down to my house that day, and as we are about to leave, my mother
turned to her and said jokingly: "Well, mother, are we ready to go a
spiritualizing!?"That day changed the lives of my friends. We sat with a
trance medium who brought through uncles, aunts, and grandparents with
convincing messages for each of my friends. He also brought through my
great-grandmother, Camie, who identified herself by name and referred to
family matters only she knew could have known about. I remember Camie's
telling us kids once that she had won a pancake eating contest at a county
fair when she was a girl. She referred to that contest during the seance, and
I was moved to tears upon hearing the story again. I¹ll never forget that
day. My friends walked away from Silver Bell with a new found faith, and I
walked away with a faith confirmed.

I started Wake Forest University in Winston-Salem, North Carolina in the
fall of 1969. It was at the time affiliated with the Southern Baptist Church,
and I was a little afraid I might be tarred and feathered for my beliefs,
because I had a big mouth and the zeal of a convert. But I became quite well
known and respected on campus because of them. It became my mission to
witness to as many people as I could about the reality of God, the power of
prayer, of healing and the survival of the spirit after death. I spoke to
countless people, my peers as well as professors during my college years. I
held seances in my dorm room. I held seances at night in the classrooms, and
I even held a seance in the Southern Baptist chapel itself at Wake Forest.
In the spring of my Freshman year, I taught a course for the campus night
school in psychic phenomena during which a woman from the community
developed powerful clairvoyant ability. I was featured both in the local
paper, The Winston-Salem Journal, and on local radio shows. That year, our
campus newspaper reported that my course was the most popular night school
course out of thirty some that were offered.

Over the years with all the losses we face as adults, my belief in the
spiritual truths I learned from my beloved grandparents and my mother has
served me well. I thank them so much for the legacy they gave me. Without
their witness to metaphysical truth in my life, I really don't know where I
would be. I am a Pisces with an ascendant in Cancer, but my moon is in
Capricorn,and that has always kept me earthbound, grounded in reality.
Otherwise, I might have been swept away along time ago by all that water! I
am a skeptic.I believe but, like Doubting Thomas in the Bible, I need proof!
It was through my family, my grandparents and my mother, that I kept on
getting the proof I needed, not only to believe myself but to lead others to
the truths my grandmother and mother preached from the pulpit and that
my grandfather taught while in trance.

My family values? What are those wonderful family values I have been talking
about? That God exists, that He loves us and reveals himself in our lives
every day- in the lilacs at spring, in the beauty of the fall when, as
my mother always said, we see death all around us but the colors of its face
take our breath away, in God's power to heal, both the mind and the body,
in God's promise that this life is not all there is, that there is an
immortal soul which survives death and is reunited with loved ones and
continues to evolve,to grow from strength to strength in God's Heavenly
Kingdom. Family values? That there is but one race, the human race, that we
are all brothers and sisters in God's eyes. Family values? That there are
many paths to God, as my grandmother always taught, that all religions
contain truth, that they can all lead one to God. Just imagine a world
without racism or any kind of bigotry based on peoples' skin color or ethnic
background! Just imagine a world where everyone respected all religions and
recognized their basic validity! It would be like enjoying the fruits of
God's Kingdom while we are still struggling here below here on Earth! My
beloved grandmother, grandfather and mother made it possible for me not only
to imagine this kind of world but to work for it, to try to live it in my
life by my example. My grandmother, Rev.Beth Hand, did. My grandfather, Rev.
Ralph Hand, did and my mother, Rev.Muriel Hand, did every day of their
lives. They remain for me my first teachers, my heroes and role models. They
left me with a wonderful legacy for which I will be grateful as long as I
live, until that day comes when we are reunited in one of the many mansions
of God's Heavenly Kingdom, and I can embrace them with great joy, knowing
that what they taught me made my life good and worthwhile.

A Chance Encounter with History

I have often wondered about fact that several of my most remarkable travel experiences have apparently happened by chance or coincidence. I use the adverb, "apparently," intentionally. These experiences have had such emotional resonance for me that I wonder if the coincidences were really mere coincidences or whether something else might have been at work. Some might call what has happened rather often to me providence. I am not uncomfortable with that term, but I like to think of them more along the lines of Carl Jung's concept of synchronicity or "meaningful coincidence." Sometimes it is a chain of meaningful coincidences that lead to an unexpected adventure. Such was the case on August 31, 1994 in Berlin, Germany.

I had spent that summer studying in the city of Klagenfurt, Austria, an off-the-beaten-path city for most Americans, but a beautiful city with the biggest lake in Austria, the Wörtersee, surrounded by the the Karavanken Mountains. I wedged my stay in Austria between a short two day visit to Berlin to catch up with an old friend and a short day and a half stay before I returned home.

I left Klagenfurt by train and arrived in Berlin on August 31. I knew that I only had a day and a half there before I was to leave for home. During my stay in Berlin at the beginning of the summer, I didn't do much sightseeing. I had been to Berlin before, and my friend and I managed to catch up without it.

Although I prefer exploring a city on my own, this time I thought a bus tour might be the most effective and efficient way to spend the limited time I had in Berlin. I would take a tour and then go back the next day to spend some more time in the place(s) I found most interesting. On the way to my hotel, I passed block after block of tour hawkers. I was still making up my mind about whether I wanted to take a tour or just head out on my own. Finally, I decided to stop and inquire about a tour. The guy booking the tours said, "I could sell you a tour, but if I were you, I would head over to Treptower Park in East Berlin. Yeltsin and Kohl are there today. Russian troops are leaving the city, and there's a big ceremony." I had been traveling for a couple of days and had not heard about this big event, but I knew that I had to be there to witness it. Germany was finally reunited, and Russian troups were leaving Berlin. It was the last page in the last chapter of the history of World War II. I was not about to miss that!

I immediately headed for the subway. I got in a car and went up to study the map to make sure I got off at the right stop. While I was studying the map, an older man approached me and in perfect Oxford English asked, "May I help you?" "Yes," I said, "I'm looking for the stop for Treptower Park. I want to see the ceremony there." "Oh," he said, "I'm going there, too." He pulled out a beautiful invitation, written in calligraphy, to the event. "It says I can bring a guest. Would you like to be my guest?" "Of course, thank you very much! My name is Kipp Matalucci." "And I am Christoph von Herwarth. I'm a retired diplomat."

Thanks to Herr von Herwarth, we got off at the right stop and proceeded to walk toward the park. There was all the big to-do one would expect for such an event: lots of people, police, limousines, TV cameras, press and sound and fury. We walked up to a large gate, and Herr von Herwarth showed the guard his invitation. "This is my guest, Mr. Matalucci," he said. I had only told him my name once, about twenty minutes before, in the subway car. The guard let us in. You, gentle reader, probably realize that without Herr von Herwarth and his invitation, the gate to the park was the closest I would have gotten to the ceremony itself.

I had been to Treptower Park once before, as a sixteen year old in 1967, when I spent six weeks in Germany and Austria with my teacher, Mrs. Marion Cote, and a small group of friends. The park is named after the Soviet General, who led the troops in the final battle of World War II, the Battle of Berlin. When a reunified Germany signed The Reunification Treaty, it had to promise to maintain this park in perpetuity. Treptower Park honors some 5,000 Soviet soldiers who died liberating Berlin from fascism. An impressive statue of a Soviet soldier with an orphaned German child in his left arm and a sword crushing a swastika in his right arm rests atop a mausoleum for the Unknown Soldier. Sixteen white stone sarcophagi representing the sixteen republics of the former Soviet Union line both sides of an area that is about the length of a football field. It is the burial ground for 5,000 of the 20,000 Soviet soldiers who fought in the Battle of Berlin. The Soviets knew how to do things big! The various monuments are grandiose, perhaps even kitschy, but they are nonetheless impressive and somehow appropriate for the event they commemorate.

Herr von Herwarth and I joined a group of smartly dressed invited guests at the portal entrance into the field. After a few minutes, we were asked to move to the other side of the field. Herr von Herwarth was wearing a brown suit. I was wearing a pair of jeans, sneakers, and a tee shirt with the words, "Bob Dole, sit down and shut up!" I still have it! Of course, I was also carrying the pack which never leaves my back whenever I travel. To cross the field, I had to walk past a squadron of Russian soldiers standing at attention. I could have almost reached out and touched them! If the entire siutation had not been so surreal, I would have been embarrassed to pass such beautifully uniformed soldiers in my getup! I have often wondered if some photographer thought to him or herself, "What the hell is that guy in the jeans doing here!?" Then maybe took a shot. I even looked the next day in several newspapers for it. There was no such photograph. To this day, I think that the photographers missed a great shot.

Soon enough, we found out why we were asked to move. Both Chancellor Helmut Kohl and President Boris Yeltsin showed up right near where we had been standing. They walked across the field up to the tomb of The Hill of Honor. They marched up the steps, laid a wreath inside the mausoleum, marched down the steps and went to the two podiums from which they would address the crowd. Russian and German troops were standing at attention on opposite sides of the field.

The ceremony began. First, Chancellor Kohl spoke. As he was speaking, his words were translated into Russian. "Cool," I thought, "I can follow both!" Then President Yeltsin spoke as his words were translated into German. After their speeches, the German soldiers actually sang to their Russian counterparts. I wish I could remember the words! They're probably on You Tube, but I do remember something about how "You came here as enemies, but you are leaving as friends." Their Russian counterparts returned the singing tribute with a song of their own. Both ditties were tuneful. I half expected the soldiers to break out into a dance, but they did not. Then the Russian troops marched around the field passing stone sarcophagus after stone sarcophagus. They wound up in front of the two leaders and ceremoniously laid down their arms. It was a sight to behold, even moving to me, a teacher of German, who thought that he would be teaching about a divided Germany and the Berlin Wall for the rest of his career. I could only imagine what it must have been like for Herr von Herwarth, who looked to me as if he might have a been a young teenager when the Soviets first marched into Berlin.

When the ceremony was over, Herr von Herwarth made a comment about how he felt under dressed. "You," I said, "Look at me! I'm in jeans and a tee shirt!" I had a camera with me. Herr von Herwarth did not. As we were leaving the park, I thanked him for the remarkable experience, and I promised him that I would mail him pictures of the event, if he would like them. He said that he would, and he got out of his suit pocket the calligraphy invitation to write his name and address on. "Are you sure you want to part with that," I asked. He gave it a second thought, and then he pulled out a typewritten invitation he had received to a morning ceremony with Chancellor Kohl and President Yeltsin in attendance. To this day, I sometimes think that I should have kept my big mouth shut so that I would have the beautifully written invitation to the ceremony I attended, but I know in my heart that I did the right thing!

When I got back to the hotel that night, I turned on the news. The Berliners were complaining. "This thing was just for the big shots!" "We couldn't get anywhere near it!" "We couldn't even hear it! The sound system was awful!" They went on and on. I couldn't believe my good fortune! "Well, this American saw and heard it all," I thought to myself. I remember watching the news and shaking my head over and over again at my luck. Or was it really luck?

When I think of the series of coincidences that led to my attendance at that ceremony, it boggles the mind. I must have passed four or five tour hawkers before I finally decided to stop and ask one about a tour. Instead of selling me a tour, which was, after all, the guy's job, he gave me a tip. I could have arrived at the subway station a couple of minutes earlier or later. I could have gotten on any of several cars on the subway train. I could have immediately found the right stop on the map and not lingered there studying it. Herr von Hertwarth could have had his wife, a son or daughter, or a good friend with him as a guest. But he did not. He was alone!

I am a life long student of the language and culture of the German and Russian peoples. At the time, I taught both German and Russian in high school. I cannot imagine a more appropriate event to close out my summer experience than the one I attended. One of my favorite directors, Wim Wenders, made a film about angels in Berlin called "Wings of Desire," but I know that Herr von Herwarth was not a angel, because I did send him the pictures, he answered with a thank-you note, and the next summer when I was back in Berlin to see Christo's Draped Reichstag, I met him again in Berlin for dinner. He was real alright. But the experience was beyond real. It felt surreal to me. It seemed too good to be true at the time, and it still does. Sometimes, I think that somebody up there likes me!

Russian troops on the march for the last time on August 31, 1994 in Treptower Park, Berlin.
Russian troops on the march for the last time on August 31, 1994 in Treptower Park, Berlin.

.Chancellor Helmuth Kohl and President Boris Yelzin leaving the mausoleum about to walk over to the podiums from which they would address the crowd.
Chancellor Helmut Kohl and President Boris Yeltsin leaving the mausoleum about to walk over to the podiums from which they would address the crowd.

The invitation, on which Herr Herwarth wrote his address, to an earlier ceremony.
The invitation, on which Herr Herwarth wrote his address, to an earlier ceremony.
Herr Herwarth's addressHerr Herwarth's address
Unfortunately, the only picture out of focus is this one of Helmuth Kohl and Boris Yeltzin as they are walking toward the mausoleum to lay the wreath.  Still, I think you can make them out and tell who is who. Kohl is on the left and Yeltzin on the right.Unfortunately, the only picture out of focus is this one of Helmut Kohl and Boris Yeltsin as they are walking toward the mausoleum to lay the wreath. Still, I think you can make them out and tell who is who. Kohl is on the left and Yeltsin on the right

Another photo of German forces at attention.  Or maybe they're singing? :-)
Another photo of German forces at attention. Or maybe they're singing?


More marching
More marching

An impressive shot with one of the sarcoohogai in the background.
An impressive lucky shot with one of the sarcohogai in the background



Reagan Gorbachev Summit 1988: Misadventure in the American Embassy in Moscow

I spent the 1987-1988 school year on sabbatical in Moscow. I was with a wonderful group leader, Mrs. Baker, a professor of Russian from Middlebury College, and an equally wonderful group of fellow grad students. Gorbachev's policies of glasnost and perestoika reached their very height that year, and many exciting things happened to all of us. It was like watching an empire begin to collapse, not over the course of centuries but in one nine month period. I could tell story after story, and I will eventually, but I would like to begin with a tale about empty beer cans discarded in the attic of the American Embassy in Moscow.

By mid-May of 1988, all the snow from a winter that began right on cue during the first week of November had melted, the weather had become sunny and warm, and the smell of spring was in the air all over the city. President Reagan came to town for a summit with Premier Gorbachev, and most of the Americans in our group got jobs with the networks. I got a job with NBC. I was paid a $100.00 a day in cash. The days were long, but I would have done the job for free and worked even longer than the twelve hours or more I often put in. It was that exciting an opportunity for me. I did anything and everything I was asked to do. For a couple of days before the summit, we stocked two rooms at the Rossia Hotel with case after case of beer for the staff. We unloaded thousands and thousands of pounds of television equipment. We did a lot of "gophering" and heavy lifting.

The Today Show set was on the balcony of the Rossia Hotel with Red Square and the Kremlin as its magnificent backdrop. Bryant Gumbel and Jane Pauley hosted the program at that time, and they shared duties. Mr. Gumbel was in Moscow, and Ms. Pauley anchored the show from New York. I wound up working on the Today Show set for Bryant Gumbel. If a light was in his eye, I would tell the Soviet technician, "The light's bothering Bryant. Could you move it?" If Mr. Gumbel needed a quick cup of coffee, I would get it for him. One day, I was given a few hundred dollars worth of rubles, I went out in the NBC van and waited in a long old-style Soviet line to buy twenty some some table fans for the staff.

On another occasion, NBC needed footage of Muscovites standing in front of glass displays reading Pravda while they were waiting for a bus. Although they did this all the time, we could not find anybody doing it when we were out looking that day. Finally, my boss asked me to run out and ask some Muscovites to go up to the display cases and pretend they were reading the newspaper. I did. Now, when I hear occasional stories about the news being staged, I know that sometimes it is, although what I was asked to do was very innocuous. Later, I was also able to do some more important work when the summit finally began, but this story is about something else.

I spent a lot of time laying a lot of a cable, countless thousands of yards of it, with three great British engineers. We laid cable all over the Rossia Hotel, at Moscow State University, and at the American Embassy. It was hard work, but the engineers made it a lot of fun, and it could also be fascinating. To lay the cable for President Reagan's address to the students of Moscow State University, we had to enter the Dean's office. Over a sofa hung a portrait of Premier Gorbachev. When I moved the sofa to run cable behind it, there were three portraits behind it of the three previous Soviet leaders, Brezhnev, Andropov and Chernenko. Out with the old and in with the new! They didn't save the portraits of their beloved leaders. They didn't even bother to throw the portraits out! It was so typical of the old Soviet Union. So 1984-like, so disrespectful, to be sure, but so down right lazy and comical, as well. I asked the Dean if I could take the portraits. He shrugged his shoulders and said, "Yes." I still have them.

One hot day, we found ourselves on the roof of the American Embassy laying cable and checking for sound. You had to go through the attic to access the roof. The entry way was little bigger than a large window. You had to see that attic to believe it! I am hardly a neat nick, but that attic was one hell of a big mess! Christmas decorations, planks of wood, books and magazines strewn all over the place, turned-over furniture, and every piece of junk imaginable wound up in that attic. It looked as if it hadn't been organized in decades! It was a real obstacle course.

Soon enough, the engineers got thirsty and asked me if I would run down to the kitchen and get them each a beer. I made my way through the obstacle course of an attic, walked down a beautiful flight of stairs and knocked on the open door of the enormous kitchen. No one answered. I knocked again, this time louder and harder. "Excuse me," I said several times. Finally, I walked in. Immediately to my left was a large restaurant style refrigerator. I opened it up and saw two cases of Heineken. I grabbed three cans and made a quick exit.

Immediately, paranoia set in. "My God," I thought, "I've just stolen three cans of beer from my own Embassy! What if I get caught? What kind of trouble could I get into? What if I get thrown out of the country at the end of my stay and by my own government?" It was all absurd, of course. I don't know why I was so scared, but all sorts of crazy notions went through my mind as I walked down the hall and up the stairs. I knew there were cameras all over the building, and that must have had something to do with my great unease. Earlier that day, someone had walked outside and asked us very nicely to wear our press credentials around our necks where they could be easily seen on the monitors. Remember, I was carrying three cans of beer. My backpack was up on the roof. I couldn't put them in my pockets. There was nowhere to hide them. I tried to walk as fast and hold them as inconspicuously as I could, but they were there for any of those cameras to pick up.

I got back up on the roof, but I was still just about as anxious as I had ever been in my life. I will tell you again that it was crazy, but it is the truth. It seemed like an eternity until the last engineer put his empty can down on the roof. The only other time each second had gone by like that in sheer agony for me was during high school gym class!

The very instant the last engineer put his beer can down, I scooped them up without a word and made my way into the attic. In a corner, I found a big, dusty sheet of plywood. I picked it up, and I disposed of the cans right there. I made sure that I put them far enough in the corner so that they would never work their way out from under that big plank of wood. Instant relief set in! I had pulled off The Great Beer Can Caper of May 1988 and was greatly relieved to have that particular adventure behind me.

I have often wondered since then just when and how those cans were finally discovered. I am sure that one day somebody said to a couple of grad students or low level employees at the Embassy, "That attic is a real s**t hole. Would you go up there and clean it out?" I can only imagine what they thought when they picked up that sheet of plywood and saw three crunched, dusty old cans of Heineken underneath it. Every other piece of junk in that attic made sense. There was no mystery as to how it wound up there. But three empty beer cans in some far corner of the place? I don't know. They probably still occasionally wonder how on earth those cans got there. I am sure they figured that there must be a story behind it. They will never know the story, but now you do.

Tallinn, Estonia 1987: A Christmas Story

Many remarkable things have happened to me in forty years of traveling, but one unforgettable Christmas Eve especially stands out.

On December 24, 1987, I found myself in Tallinn, the capital of Estonia. I was with a Middlebury group of grad and undergrad students. We had broken off our studies at the Pushkin Institute in Moscow to take a Christmas trip to Estonia. It was a wonderful place to be at Christmas time! We attended a beautiful Lutheran Christmas service, and then we had a festive meal at a restaurant on Tallinn's main square, Raekoia plats. We ate, drank and made merry with round after round of toasts à la russe, and then we exchanged "Secret Santa" gifts. I had lucked out and pulled Betsy Martin's name out of the hat. Betsy happened to be my closest friend in the group.

Half way through the evening, I was beginning to feel ill. Too much vodka and caviar, I assumed. I decided to leave the dinner party early, spend a few minutes watching the Christmas festivities on Raekoia plats, and then walk back to the hotel. The square teamed with life and was all aglow with the Christmas spirit. A beautiful Christmas tree in front of The Raekoda, Tallinn's City Hall, was the focal point for much of the activity. Children skated around it on a circular ice rink. Clowns juggled, carolers sang, vendors sold mulled wine, and everyone, young and old, was making merry. I don't think it was much above zero that night, and I wanted to be in my warm bed under a down comforter, but I realized that I should stay and savor such a magical moment. I thought of my favorite quotation from Goethe's Faust, "Linger! Thou art so beautiful!" ("Verweile doch! Du bist so schön!")

Soon, the event took a turn that made it even more memorable.

I still smoked at that time, and while I was fumbling around in coat pockets to find a match, a young man offered me a light. I thanked him in Russian. He asked me where I was from, and when I answered, "The United States," he took off talking a mile a minute in bad Russian, even though he had been studying the language since kindergarden. His friends quickly gathered around. They peppered me with questions, observations and requests: "Please tell President Reagan that we hate the Russians! This place would look just like the Finland, if it weren't for those damn Russians! That's a Christmas tree up there, not a New Year's tree!" They went on and on. I was reeling at my good fortune. An illness had brought me to yet another wonderful travel moment.

Suddenly, the guy who had offered me the light, Aivar, invited me to come home with him to meet his family. It was after 11:00 on Christmas Eve. I thought of how my parents would have reacted, if I had picked up some foreigner and brought him home toward midnight on Christmas Eve. I politely declined, but Mihkel would not take no for an answer. He became almost plaintiff. " Don't worry! I want you to meet my fiance. My fiance's father loves Americans! He will be thrilled. Please, please come! Please say yes!" I think he even said, "I beg you!" Realizing what a memorable experience this could become, I finally acquiesced.

Before I knew it, I was in a cab heading out to the apartment building where his finance, Anita, future father and sister-in-law lived. Just as we were approaching his apartment, I noticed a man with a "I Love New York!" sweatshirt walking toward us. "That's my fiance's father!" my new friend cried out. Andres was returning from a Christmas party, and the fact that on such a bitter cold night his coat was opened to reveal his new Christmas present should give the reader a clue as to just how festive his mood was!

When Aivar introduced me as an American, Andres embraced me as if I were a long lost brother. He immediately invited me up to his apartment. No sooner had we entered the kitchen than my host put a bottle of vodka on the table. The girls started getting food out of the refrigerator, and before I knew it, all sorts of stuff were sizzling on the stove, and there were cakes, cookies and candies on the table. Suddenly, there was almost as much excitement and hustle and bustle in that tiny apartment as there had been on all of Raikoia plats. I got a cook's tour of the tiny apartment and was given the honor of lighting the tree! We went back into the kitchen where the food was ready, and the eating, drinking and conversing took off with a vengeance.

My hosts could not hear enough about America. They wanted to know every detail about our lives. Was it really like "Dynasty," where everyone lived in luxury? They got Finnish TV and could understand it. We talked about anything and everything until the wee small hours of the morning. They kept saying how they hated the Russians, and I found out why Aivar's Russian was so bad, even though he had been exposed to it since he was in kindergarten. Parents in the Baltic Republics didn't care if their kids got C's and D's in Russian! One of the few ways of protesting the Soviet occupation of their countries was to resist learning the Russian language! During all the merriment, I completely forgot about how sick I was. Finally, it came time to go. I think that the first bus headed into the center of the city at 5:00 AM. My hosts insisted on accompanying me to the bus stop and waiting with me in the bone chilling zero degree temperature until the bus came. It finally did. Of course, it had no heat.

The next day, I woke up feeling even sicker. But the feeling was tempered by the realization of the remarkable experience I had enjoyed that Christmas Eve. Through a series of coincidences, I was led to a family to celebrate Christmas with! My American family was far, far away. My Middlebury family was great, but we celebrated the holiday in a restaurant and a hotel, not in a home all decorated for Christmas with a lovely Christmas tree. All those miles away from home, I was given a great gift that night, the gift of family, hearth and home. I will never forget my good fortune on Christmas Eve of 1987.